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Reference Manual


Chapter 6: Electrical/Interior: Flash-to-Pass


Have you noticed how difficult a Cutlass rocker headlamp switch has made it to "Flash" your highbeams when the headlights are off? After a few times where I wished to flash the lights to warn oncoming traffic of a hazard they were headed for, and not doing so because it was such a pain. I stumbled across some instructions on the Impala SS site describing how to add Flash-to-Pass to that vehicle. Because GM has used virtually the same steering column in every car they build, it was a small step to conclude the same 94+ Cadillac Fleetwood switch could be added to G-body.

Old link appears to be dead. another one.

Parts required:

Tools required:

Time required:

If you haven't dropped a column and/or removed the cluster surround before, plan on an afternoon. If you are familiar with these tasks, 1-2 hours. Both the previous estimates do not include the time to make the required power wire.

old and new switches

Above an original switch (on the right), and the new switch (on the left).

The procedure:

column bracket

At this point you should be looking at something like the above. Note that the shift indicator cable is still attached.

column base
dimmer switch

Here you can see the mounting screws "A", also note the silver screw under
the tall part of the switch "B", we'll be using that location later.

Now we have to get FtP power to the dimmer switch, the rocker style switch has an unused terminal that has constant +12 on it and is protected by the headlamp circuit breaker in the switch. Perfect! Are you getting the feeling GM designed for Flash-to-Pass yet?

power wire

Here's my new power wire ready to install, at 31" long, it's sized for eventual insertion into the factory harness. The joint is a crimped and soldered uninsulated butt connector picked up at Radio Shack and covered with 4 layers of shrink tubing.

tools

A tool suggestion. At the bottom of this pic, you can see my favorite tool for removing the trim panels on either side of the cluster. By inserting the slotted screw end into the vent and hooking the back side of the vent, the panels can be easily removed without damage.

I.P. Adapter

Here's what you'll see after removing the headlamp switch from the i.p. adaptor. Note that the second position from the top of the left connector is empty, not for long.

headlamp switch connector

Here the connector has been pulled out, opened up and the new power wire inserted.

connector reinstalled

The connector reinstalled in the i.p. adaptor.

DON'T INSTALL THE HEADLAMP SWITCH YET!!! If you do that nice new power lead hanging somewhere behind your dash will have +12 on it and will find something somewhere to short out against.

dimmer switch connector

Here's a dimmer switch connector. You can see the empty position at the bottom right of the connector, this is where we'll install the new power wire.

the result


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